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Hi et salut hallo f_minorites,
Been busy lately, pecked about the ankles by
angry ducks ... so I'm sorry if I haven't posted much lately. But I faithfully read (almost) every post.
* * *
Between the last week of September and the
first week or two of October, (mostly adolescent male) polar bears will make
their annual migration around and through the tiny Hudson Bay grain shipping
port town of Churchill, Manitoba Canada.
I guess rich pervs can comfortably fly
there from Toronto or Montreal, but Normal Human Beings catch a train (diesel, 'cause you're
going Way Off The Electric Grid) in Winnipeg and head North through the vast
gorgeous Canadian forest wilderness for 2.5 days until -- far beyond the Tree
Line, in Arctic permafrost tundra -- it finally reaches Churchill.
(Like all beach towns, you'll be just a
block or two from the beach, which is the astonishingly otherworldly Hudson
Bay.)
One Human Being who rode this train there
and back again was Glenn Gould. In 1967 the CBC asked what he'd like to
contribute to a big Anniversary, and GG took a tape recorder and talked to the
passengers riding this train to the Canadian North.
The result -- after GG's
revolutionary mixing -- was his first radio documentary, "The Idea of
North."
(If you've never heard TIoN, a little web
shopping or library surfing could get all three radiodocs to your ears in a few
days.)
It's my wish that the world-unique train
trip, the wilderness, and the annual polar bear migration might seduce just 1 or 2
or maybe 3 addled f_minorites to investigate buying a round-trip seat or sleep
box on This Amazing Train.
I promise any GG fan addled and
irresponsible enough (as I once was) only The Adventure of a Lifetime. I promise
nothing more than that.
(Except up-close-and-personal encounters
with polar bears, polar bear warning signs, barred doors up and down main street
to keep the polar bears from whacking tourists ...)
For a week you'll be Less Than No. 1 on the
Food Chain. Running shoes are much better than great wilderness
boots.
For whacks like me, this is one of the most
famous train journeys on the planet, the subject not just of TIoN, but
of documentaries that have peppered TV for decades.
Likely, you've waited too long to book this
famous trip -- but it's been my experience that if you want a journey bad
enough, and you whine, and bribe, and lie, and wheedle, and then just show up
waving cash, they usually find space for you and your backpack.
Or for you and a pal, and both your
backpacks.
The crammed snack bar car -- this is a
heavy-drinking frontier train, affordable transportation for the people in these
parts -- is possibly the most interesting cage of colorful people I've ever
spent hours in.
You could semi-officialize something This
Train has never had -- a living, travelling memorial to GG's 1967 trip, what it
meant to him, and what it did to his creative life. By just chatting with
passengers, or lending them flash drives of TIoN, f_minor could treat Glenn to
another train ride to Churchill. Glenn made the Canadian Arctic his own just as much as
Toronto.
The buzz is that Churchill is the
world's hottest, most active spot to view the Aurora. It sure looked astonishing
to me. The Native-Canadians are mostly Inuit, some Swampy Cree, they have their
own (missionary-introduced) alphabet, and if you are lucky and courteous, they will share some
of their experience with you.
The food's very interesting, some of it
stunningly delicious, and unobtainable in civilized regions. (Calling Churchill
"civilized" would be a stretch.)
In my Amazing Adventure, there was no hint,
no rumor, no whisper that the polar bear -- the largest and best
hunter-carnivore on Earth, mostly it hunts seals on winter ice -- might be
coming to the end of its millennia as undisputed ruler of the circumpolar
Arctic. The anamolous numbers of polar bear drownings hadn't yet been reported
by US federal scientists.
GG's earlier trip ditto -- everyone assumed
the great and dangerous wild polar bear would be there for humans to
marvel at forever.
So now, as you ponder a wildly irresponsible
and impulsive adventure, there's an added urgency. We're looking at a future,
some now think in our lifetimes, when there'll still be polar bears ... but only
in the world's zoos. As the polar ice melts, the wild bears will drown trying to
swim to the next ice cake.
If you are completely impulsive and
irresponsible -- bring me back photos and souvenirs, send me a
postcard!
Bob
Massachusetts USA
"Of all our regrets, the coldest and most empty are of temptations we have successfully resisted."
-- James Branch Cabell
(from memory, but that's pretty close)